Distance this period: 465.47 km Total Distance: 4874.97 km
Agaiya (camp) – 117.2 km
Chainpur (camp) – 125.61 km
Butwal (camp) – 89.66 km
Syangya (camp) – 91.0 km
Pokhra – 42.0 km
Today’s ride was full of excitement. Started with fear while crossing Birdia National Park. Previous night people at the dhaba told me scary stories of wild animal attacking passerby in broad daylight that too on a wide road. So rode like anything… then at the end, already getting dark and entered Banke national park, again all alone big jungle both the sides of the road. Scary.. Dinner and found a tin shed to camp.
Total KM – 117.2 km Total expense – 400/- rs. Approx time – 6.35 hrs.
Hate these flat roads.. breakfast at Kusum. Lunch at Amilia. Met 2 cycling couple all the way Spain. Roads were empty due to strike. Chainpur…. asked a hotelwala if I can camp in his yard, but thats for bus parking he says. But he opens his terrace though, bike parked in garage.
Total KM – 125.61 km Total expense – 410/- rs. Approx time – 10.00 hrs.
All flat to Butwal. At Junction turned left to Pokhra road. En-route lots of hotel and food points but none offered proper meal and stay. They were open but offered drink and snacks only. Found a flat ground by roadside and camped. Total KM – 89.66 km Total expense – 280/- rs. Approx time – 7.20 hrs.
Hills again, and I’m loving it. Speedometer stopped working today. Kali-Godawari river bridge… ups and downs continued.. Camped 5 kms short to Syangya town. Total KM – 91.0 km Total expense – 290/- rs. Approx time – 9.00 hrs.
Ups and downs continued.. Sunny day. Made it to Pokhra today. Lake Side area is where all the fun is someone told me.. At 1st roundabouttook left to Taal area, saw a bike shop, went in, found a nice guy, little bit of talking and he refers me to a cheap hotel nearby. Booked it for 3 rest days. Total KM – 91.0 km Total expense – 290/- rs. Approx time – 9.00 hrs.
Distance this period: 386.17 km Total Distance: 4406.31 km
Pasti (camp) – 35.44 km
Khichlek – 74.36 km
Amargadhi Dadeldhura – 80.49 km
Godawari (camp)– 112.22 km
Chisapani – 83.66 km
First day ride in Nepal. Tea and followed the Sharda river for about 20km. Good road so far.. lunch at dhaba then its up to Pasti top pass. lots of punctures today. At top got another while fixing that a nearby shop owner came and helped me. offered to stay with them for the night. Played volleyball, had dinner and set up a tent nearby.
Total KM – 35.44 km
Total expense – 150/- rs.
Approx time – 3.28 hrs.
From Pasti its about 3 km uphill ride, then flat, then downhill. Hit a bridge, then up 10 km to Sillake top. Made it to Khuchlek police check post, little verification and booked a room.
Total KM – 74.36 km
Total expense – 280/- rs.
Approx time – 6.20 hrs.
Uphill for 15kms to Satbanjh jn. right goes to Baitadi Jhulaghat, another entry point to here. I took left to Patan. downhill then up for 22 kms, steep and killing uphill. Khudpe. Left goes to Bajhang, further to China border on foot. I went straight after lunch there. Climbs here are pretty steep. Amargadhi. A motorcyclist offered a stay at hotel Greenland. Met the owner. Mild knee pain due to bloody climb, hope tomorrow’s good.
Total KM – 80.49 km
Total expense – 880/- rs.
Approx time – 8.20 hrs.
Wow… what a ride today…. Started 9ish without breakfast. Tried ATM but no cash. Too many ups and downs… the one steep downhill to Godawari bridge. Lunch at Budar. no pics taken today. Fog in the morning fog in the evening.. then rain made it worse…. Downhill was so fun but scary… low visibility… Found one empty govt. building and camped there. dinner at nearby hotel.
Total KM – 112.22 km
Total expense – 415/- rs.
Approx time – 7.36 hrs.
Speedometer started giving different readings, changed battery. Now I was in the flatland nepal, called Tarai area. Hot and humid. Atariya has ATMs, big town. ATM charged me 500/- nepali rupees for my 10k withdrawl. Night in a shitty room, food is nice though.
Distance this period: 138.25 km Total Distance: 4020.14 km
Munsiyari – 32.60 km
Jauljibi – 71.60 km
Dharchula – 30.90 km
Darchula Nepal – 3.19 km (yes, its without h…. Nepal side town)
Morning short walk up to Birthi Falls was refreshing. After breakfast started riding up to the top then some down to Munsiyari. Booked a room @ KMVN rest house. Then shopping, TV after a long time. The caretaker tells me entry to Nepal from Dharhula is not possible. Jhulaghat is also doubtful. Looks like its going to be a long ride to Banbasa.
Total KM – 32.60 km
Total expense – 720/- rs.
Approx time – 3.41 hrs.
So September month has stated today, weather is nice, Panchachuli view is refreshing and I continued riding downwards. Rear tire giving me headche, fixed two times already. Got talkin to a guy who tells me of robbery. And as I recall same robbery story one guy at Tabo Spiti shared his travel stories of this area. So told myself no camping till I touch Nepal. Then a car stops, police van actually. The DSP of Dharchula sitting inside, a cyclist himself. He tells me once I reach Dharchula go to police station they will arrange my stay. Nice. Jauljibi is the place for tonight though. Sharda river from Dharchula side and Gori-Ganga from Munsiyari side meets here.
Total KM – 71.60 km
Total expense – 680/- rs.
Approx time – 5.20 hrs.
It will be a uphill ride today. Sharda river and other side Nepal. Met the DSP again on the road, he tells his name Himanshu Shah, yeah I forgot to ask yesterday. Then road-workers, the GREF, lovely bunch of people. One guy plays tough on me initially asking so many questions then he offers food, taught me how to play rummy. Talks, advises I loved their company. Dharchula. Found a hotel (Hotel Shivam). Went to border crossing, well first went to police station, they had no information of my arrival. yuck! KMVN rest house is nearby but no luck there. One batch of Kailash-Mansarovar yatra coming today. So the hotel room booking. Then the Border crossing, SSB guy tells its possible to cross. Lucky me.
Total KM – 32.90 km
Total expense – 570/- rs.
Approx time – 3.40 hrs.
Started at 9am from hotel. DSP saw me riding past police station, sent one orderly to fetch me, how nice…. Listened to their planning of a meeting on some matters, then he takes me to his residence. Tea parantha, his cycle adventures. Showed me his trek MTB. Took his number said my good-byes. Now at crossing bridge, SSB guy needs written permission from SDM office, wow…. rode back to SDM office, asked the guard where to approach. Met the orderly and waited… the young reluctant SDM fellow says no. He cannot help me… Now back to bridge, then to the senior offices cabin. He says type a letter. The guard takes me to his quarters, his colleagues wrote a letter for me to let me pass, here are my credentials.. Happy officer lets me pass through. Bag checking on our side and checking at Nepali side as well… Into Nepali land now…. First thing I need Nepali rupees. ATM charges 50 bucks to withdraw..great… exchange counter exchanges note for free. Pretty messed up day to ride so booked a room. Parked my bike at the back. Ate Nepali non-veg thali. Went back India side on withdraw money, crossed the border over bridge again, exchanged the notes at the exchange counter. Time to relax at buggy smelly room.
Distance this period: 442.80 km Total Distance: 3881.89 km
Byasi, Rishikesh – 86 km
RudraPrayag – 100.10 km
Harmani – 79.90 km
Bharari – 105.50 km
Birthi – 71.03 km
3 days of rest and family visit was lovely. Reached Doon by bus, had breakfast there, by 10 am was ready to say good-bye. Went firefox, changed tire and sarted riding towards clock-tower onto Rishikesh via Raipur, a quite road. Rishikesh but then continued. Found one empty tea stall shed, pitched my tent inside and slept.
Total KM – 86.00 km
Total expense – 1180/- rs.
Approx time – 6.30 hrs.
Started pretty early following The mighty Ganges on my way up to Dev Prayag sangam, took right to Srinagar and found one hotel 15kms short of Rudraprayag.
Total KM – 100.10 km
Total expense – 560/- rs.
Approx time – 8.30 hrs.
Rudraprayag. then good road to Gaucher KaranPrayag. At junction asked a hotel guy for night stay he says Narayan Bagar for night. Road is bad now, widing work in progress. it was 6 already so continued in dark. A bad decision. Scared but found a place called Harmani, bought juice n stuff and camed at the varandah of SBI branch by the roadside. One drunk guy came said he is a local reporter and I need to get permission from the brach head before camping there.
Total KM – 79.90 km
Total expense – 250/- rs.
Approx time – 7.30 hrs.
Started early, at Tharali took left turn towards Roopkund road, thinking of a trek upto to Bedni Bugyal but couldn’t make a decision at the junction. Pretty good road till Gwaldam, lunch there and downhill to Baijnath, turn to Bageshwar. Rakhi day so market was closed. made it to Kapkot. School kid came asking for a ride so gave them for a round. 2 kms up Bharari and found hotel Glacier for the night.
Total KM – 105.50 km
Total expense – 330/- rs.
Approx time – 10.00 hrs.
Bharari is the place where you get perters for your Pindari Glacier trek. I went up riding to Sama. Pretty quite road. Then the road was hell, small stones big stones you name it. I was pushing my bike downhill crazy!!! so many punctures. Then up/straight at the junction of Tejam. Talked to a policeman he offered me tea, 2 cup of them and said KMVN TRH Birthi some 12-15 km from here. Made it there by 7:30pm headlight clutched in-between my teeth. Got dormitory, dinner and sleepy good night.
Distance this period: 237.68 km Total Distance: 2439.77 km
Chandra Taal – 0 km
Losar – 36.92 km
Kaza – 68.04 km
Hurling – 60.08 km
Took a rest dat at Chandra Taal. Campsite is way below the actual Taal. Ask a tent wallah if I can camp in front of his tent cum food stall, he said yes! ate maggie, 80 rs. for that one bowl of noodles, can you believe? hilarious. got stomach-ache, a sick day, loosemotions, headache. No good.
Total KM – 0 kms
Total expense – 0/-
early morning packed everything, saw another cyclist spreading his sleeping bag open in air at far. bumpy ride continued. Ate nothing the previous day so thought of going back to Batal and have a meal but the thought of the ride back said no so skipped it. 9 kms up to the Kunzum La Top, pretty bumpy and sunny day. at 12 noon made it the top. Rested a bit. Then starts worst downhill, hands shaking like anything, took a lot of energy on concentration & riding. Then some flat and came Losar. 1st restaurant up, ordered food, got talking to the owner, he says I can camp in his premises at the back. He tells me one cyclist met with an accident and taken back to Manali. Then came the other cyclist, from Boka ( a country sandwitched between Spain & France) he tells me.
Total KM – 36.92 kms
Total expense – 280/-
Approx time – 5.42 Hrs
Losar is the place where you need to register yourself with the local police.
Bloody punctured day today; 5 in total. Started with new European guy at 7, 1st puncture just after 5 kms of ride, the guy helped me to fix it. At Kuato, asked locals about Kibber route, got mixed response some said yes we can cross it some said no. The GREF guy confirms road is being built till Chichim; to reach Kibber, a suspension bridge is there, you cannot ride on it. So we went towards Kaza. Flat after flat tire so changed the rear tire just after the place called Hal. The guy continued his journey I fixed my bike. Got ATM near Kaza bazaar. took out 2k, had chowmin momo, then got puncture again. Camped by the road and fixed it. Took off the mudguard as well.
Total KM – 68.04 kms
Total expense – 210/-
Approx time – 6.00 Hrs
Got up at 5, cleaned the bike and started at 9. today was a no water route. Some pretty bad stretches. Following the Spiti river. Lunch at Tabo, other than that no food option in-between. Got talking with the owner Ramesh, nice guy, been there for 15 years, originally from Bilaspur, now organises tours trekking and all. Made it to Hurling. Tea and enquired about Sumdo stay options, reply came as strict NO, said better check with HPPWD right here. Nice guy the caretaker. He allowed me to camp inside. Talks and then dinner at some restaurant Tengin Fast food.
Total KM – 60.08 kms
Total expense – 180/-
Approx time – 6.30 Hrs
Missed the route towards Gue, the mummy place. its 8 kms off the main road. Had tea samosa jalebi at Sumdo. Sumdo is the place where foreigers need to show ILP, can get it from Kaza. I just registered mysellf. Sumdo is just a army transit place no stay option. Here you cross the Spiti river, now it will flow to your left side. Road widening work in progress. Easy climb of 13 kms before Nako. Lunch. Lovely downhill till the bridge where Spiti river meets ugly mighty Sutlej river. Namgia, you can take a turn towards ShipkiLa, doors ro ChinaLand. thought of going up but heavy headwind + late. Made it to Pooh by 7 pm. 3 kms up from main road, found a hotel (Om Hotel).
Total KM – 92.80 kms
Total expense – 610/-
Approx time – 9.11 Hrs
Distance this period: 237.68 km Total Distance: 2439.77 km
Pang – 0 km
Sarchu – 79.16 km
Darcha – 79.22 km
Grampo – 79.30 km
From Pang, the charm of Manali – Leh highwayturns pale. Bad road starts, the rain made it worse. Now that Tanglang La was closed, traffic coming from Leh was stopped too. So it was a good ride. Made it to LachungLa top, then down to Whisky Nallah, had maggie then uphill to NakeeLa. Then downhill, 21 loops of Ghata Loops started. Loved it. Touched the riverbed, then a bridge, broken. BRO was working, even though peoples were walking on that bridge, the main guy didn’t allow me to pass through. Wasted an hour, he made me first to cross, everyone was clapping, nice.
Then flatish ride to Sarchu. crossed a bridge and officially entered into Himachal Pradesh. One guy from tid shed shouted stay dinner daru here, so here I was sipping a bottle of bear in my tent. Adios J&K. Camped
Total KM – 79.16 kms
Total expense – 310/-
Early morning heard peoples talking about God; well I am in HP now.
Flattish ride to Kilingsarai BRO dett. uphill starts, Bharatpur. Lunch time. Met 2 cyclists going in same direction, then met Worldbiking couple (going opposite, to Leh), some chat, then 2 more Spanish cyclists going towards Leh. Baralacha La Top, again got a chance to salute entire army convoy. Zingzingbar. Tea Chana at Patseo. Made it to Darcha. Room for 100/- rs.
Total KM – 79.22 kms
Total expense – 470/-
Good road continued all the way to Keylong. Had piranha. Then a bad patch of road, Tandi Bridge, THE famous Tandi bridge heard a lot this bridge before now here I was. Two rivers Chandra and Bhaga meets here. Then dusty uphill to Gondala. On this dust met Ahmedabad family of Pang stay. Tanglang La was still closed so they turned back. Luch at Sissu. Koksar, a bridge, the starts the horrible dirly climb of Rohtang La. Dragged myself to a spot where I could camp. Found one, as soon as I opened the tent, a guy comes and enquires what am I upto. Nice guy from Nepal. Invited me to camp next to his camp other side of wallah. He made a nice dinner for me, how lovely.
Total KM – 79.30 km
Total expense – 90/-
Distance this period: 139.89 km Total Distance: 2202.09 km
Nyoma – 0 km
Tsokar – 79.23 km
Pang – 60.66 km
Pang (rest day) – 0 km
Nyoma has good home stays and hotels, food options available easily. But I was in no mood to spend money on leisure. So had some noodels and headed to a isolated place, camped and slept. It rained at night and continued in the morning. Gave a little window to pack my stuff and keep moving. The night was beautiful but felt lonely.
22 km to Nyoma is Mahe, right road goes to HorLa, KaksangLa to Chusul, I kept my left towards to Mahe bridge, Police check post. Permit and entry. Nice guy, gave me salty tea, I was hungry, wet, shaky completely drenched. Straight road goes towards Leh, I crossed the bridge to my left. 12 km is Sumdho, Before the town is a junction, left goes to Tso Moriri. I took straight to my right. A shop is there at Sumdho but no one was there.
Further 7 kms is Puga, just few houses. Some tarmac road and then starts the bloody rocky climb to Pologongka La. This 11 km to the top is damn nasty, pushed all the way up. 2 days of no food made it worse. It was already 5 pm when I reached the top. Found two guy drinking, continued, hurders camp, kids chased me on downhill. Then weather turned ugly, rained, crossed two dangerous water crossing, water was flowing like hell up my waist. wet pannier, wet cloths, dark, way to windy to handle the bike. Flaged down upcoming vehicle but he responded with a bad news, next town further 10 kms. He suggested to cross the watercrossing from middle of the road, smart guy.
My bike The X was in full mood today, rode it like running for my life and it obeyed me like a partner. I almost kissed it. At 8 pm a shop keeper offered a room for 300/- and warm food. Bargained for 200/- all. One hell of a ride today.
Its 16 kms to Manali-Leh highway! yay..
Kms covered – 79.23 km
Total expense – 550/-
Next day started as late as 11 am. Theres one short cut to the Manali – Leh highway but took a long one. Debring, 40 kms to Pang, Moore Plains, met one Irish cyclist solo and a guy from Banglore, both riding towards Leh. Weather turned ugly, strong headwind, some rain. Then Pang. A lady offered a bed for 100/- rs.
Kms covered – 60.66 km
Total expense – 615/-
Took a rest day at Pang, nothing much to do here. Borrowed some carosine from the owner lady and washed The X nicely.
Then met a family from Ahmedabad, they stayed at Manali for a day and rode straight here at Pang, complaining of headache. I advised to check with doctor and they did. Frightened whole family.
It rained and got a news of Tanglang La being closed.
Distance this period: 180.85 km Total Distance: 2062.20 km
Tangtse – 0 km
Spangmik – 43.94 km
Chusul – 48.08 km
Nyoma – 88.83 km
Tangtse is the first place for inner line permit check point. There is a bridge before you enter the town, just after the bridge you park your vehicle and go inside a tent. One punjabi aryman was funny enough to make me smile. He told me to be on my right side for the next two days journey. Its a short ride to Pangong Lake. yes, THE FAMOUS PANGONG LAKE. So great to be here. Food was too costly, too windy to camp; so moved ahead to the next settlement called Spangmik. Got a room for rs. 200/- rained whole night.
Km covered – 43.94 km
Total expense – 410/-
So the touristy thing ends here. I was heading to a barren land today; to CHUSUL. It was one hell of a ride, and a memorable one. Along the beautiful Pangong Lake. Started as early as 0830 am and made it to Chusul by 0400 pm.
Lonely road along the lake, so much in love with its water and sorrounding air. Merak, a police check point, here deposited a copy of permit. Didn’t see any food joints, however the policeman told me to ask any villager and they will be happy to serve you one. One motorbiker from Mumbai was turned back, riding without permit.
Alongside the lake, downish ride, just one small hill before Chusul. Rocky, sandy, water you get everything but no proper road.
Chusul was silent like hell. Asked local about staying accodomation, one fellow offered his house, accepted his offer but camped outside in his courtyard. Dinner with them was nice. One policeman came to check upon me, took a copy of permit, a long chat.
Kms covered – 48.09 km
Total expense – 210/-
The Stay was nice, good and honest people. Only man in the house, taking care of his lady and four daughters, a camper jeep. Food supply comes from Leh, little bit of farming, have a small shop, lady runs it. Men & women both do hard work, BRO hires them for road work, and things like that. God! how much for survival. I felt very bad, was worried how he gonna marry his daughters.
Said my goodbyes and kept on the bad road. Very bad till Tsaga village.
Chusul is the point from one road goes to Pangong Lake, another one goes to Tangtse directly, another goes all the way up to Kaksang La and HorLa, and then one goes along the China border which I was going to ride today.
I was out of my emergency food supply. But kept riding. One army convoy passed, I chased the last truck, it happens to be a food supply truck. The man sitting at the back was kind enough to through some dry fruits and a tetra-pack of real juice. wow, felt like rescued from a fight.
20 kms from Chusul is 13 Kumaon War memorial. Strong headwind, bad full of stone road, slightly elevated up road leads to Tsaga La top. There’s army camp at further up and one helipad. Downhill starts here and then tarmac road. Great to be back on proper road. Tsaga Village, then CRPF check point, submitted a copy of permit. Met a jawan from my own land, got hot tea, snacks and some warmth inside the camp. Tarmac continues on downhill. Then Loma Bend, a roundabout, and CRPF checkpoint, another copy of permit, another hospitality from CRPF jawans. From here left goes to Hanle (~ 50 kms), Hanle is the place where you get to see stars in amazingly different way; like the whole of milky way galaxy comes to visit here.
I took right to Nyoma. Barren land again, not a single soul along the road, just army camps at distant places. Nyoma, camped.
Km covered – 88.83
Total expense – 60/-
Distance this period: 187.94 km Total Distance: 1881.35 km
Khardung – 0 km
Ganglas – 52.96 km
Zingral – 81.70 km
Tangtse – 53.28 km
Early morning; woke up without water or food, rode about 10 km to Khardung village for breakfast.
Then the nasty climb of that side up to the Top was killing. It was already 1 o’clock when I crossed North Pullu, continued, I could see sunny weather turning cloudy and 5 km short of the Top it started raining. I started pushing The X on slippery, watery, cold road.
And then a cabbie offered me a lift, couldn’t say no, looking at the furious weather. My plan was to camp just below the Top (~1 km), while coming down I saw one abandoned road workers camp but lift was there, they dropped me at South Pullu. Had some noodles there and rode towards Leh till I found a camp spot just before Leh town.
Kms covered – 52.96
Total expense – 215/-
Leh again, but continued riding left on Manali road, met a cyclist from Israel. Little chat. Then late breakfast at Karu, packed emergency food. Straight road goes to TanglangLa, I took left turn. Made it to Sakti by noon. Junction; left goes to WariLa, some eating joints are there, had some food there and headed right to ChangLa. What a climb it is, killing gradient. Asked for shelter at Zingral army camp, denied. Then there was this guy called Shindhe, he pointed me to GREF campsite, other side of the road. Nice stay; got heater, some rum, chicken rice and lots of gyan. Zingral Camp
Kms covered – 81.70
Total expense – 250/-
Had tea early morning there and left. It took 4 hrs to cover last 12 km of ChangLa top, road was pretty bad. At the top, tea was 30 rupees a cup, noodles 60 a plate, great.
But it’s THE TOP.
Downhill starts from the top, road are nice and tarred. Rained a bit, repeated same mistake of not breaking at the water crossing and fell off the bike. A puncture, left side of the break system broke, don’t know how will I survive with only rear breaking. It’s all down to Durbuk. Junction; left goes to Agham, I took right to Tangtse. A bad day.
Kms covered – 53.28
Total expense – 900/-
Distance this period: 186.01 km Total Distance: 1693.41 km
Leh – 0 km
North Pullu – 56.91 km
Hunder – 80.44 km
Khardung Village – 48.66 km
Leh stay was mesmerizing, would love to be there again for a long stay there. Such a charming place.
Kms covered – 0.00
Total expense – 960/-
It was time to conquer the Top, KhardungLa. Started 0530 am, its easy climb to start. Gentle climb and good tarred road upto South Pullu. Check post. Some tea, food stalls there. Then starts bad road, water crossings, and road work never finishes here.
I was in good company of cyclists all the way up, everyone loves challenges I guess.
I pushed last couple of kms, was damn tired and exhausted. Had Maggie at the top. And The Top. What a feeling!
Then I pushed some downhill too, it was too scary to ride on such boulders, potholes and cold. Some terrible water crossings other side. Lession learnt – no riding after 3 o’clock in hills. North Pullu, Stay at some hotel.
Kms covered – 56.91
Total expense – 390/-
It was all downhill ride today, road is tarred, smooth like a skin, loved the spinning. A Junction, straight road goes towards Agham, I was loving spinning by now so took the left turn, Khalsar, then flattish road to a junction; right ride goes to Panamik, I took the left one to Diskit and then to Hunder. Found a nice hotel.
Kms covered – 80.44
Total expense – 880/-
Couldn’t go further ahead of Hunder. Return back journey started. At Khalsar had lunch. One army van was stationed there, walked up to the young officer sitting at the front seat and saluted him. Bad news – Agham route is blocked. I asked him how he joined forces and all. On the status of road he said local can’t be trusted better check with the chowki stationed before the junction. But a bad day today. What this means – I will have to climb back to the top. Damn!
Then I did, but found myself uneasy on the climb back and camped 10 km short of Khardung Village. Camp
Kms covered – 48.66
Total expense – 100/-